Sun-drenched, mud-soaked, utterly exhausting, 17km hike to the heart of the cloud forest, Penas Blancas today. My rubber boots didn’t do much to save my feet, but my first sighting of the bizarrely captivating Three Wattled Bellbird (Procnias tricarunculata) definitely lifted the mood.

Check this video out to hear its haunting, otherworldly call!

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